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Malta for Beginners

Journalist and editor Andreina Cordani knows Malta well, from Fungus Rock to the Blue Lagoon. This is her insider guide.

Over 4,000 years ago, before the pyramids and when Stonehenge was just a twinkle in a druid’s eye, the islanders of Malta created small statues of women. They have curves, big shapely bottoms, a heck of a bosom, and to this day we’re still not certain exactly why they were made. But there’s something appealing, female friendly and altogether goddess-like about Malta’s mysterious “Fat Ladies” (even if most of them are minus their heads!)

Part British, part Italian, part Arabic – Malta is an independent country just 316 square kilometres across, with its own language, government and culture. It’s been visited (or invaded) by most of Europe over the centuries. You’ll see shades of Sicily, echoes of Morocco and a dash of the English seaside as well as the mysterious ancient culture that’s been there for aeons. Valletta, the teeny tiny capital city, is the best place to base yourself – but it’s worth hiring a car or hopping on a bus to see the rest of the islands, too.

Valletta

Walk through the narrow winding streets, explore dozens of churches and gaze at the curvy ladies in the National Museum of Archaology on Republic Street, then take in tea and a pastry at Cafe Cordina in the town’s main square. The capital city feels like a small town – bits of it are surprisingly down at heel, other parts have been renovated, and it’s surrounded by centuries-old fortress walls.

Where to stay

Malta’s most recent invasion was by British tourists in the 1970s and 1980s, so the bay opposite Valletta, Sliema, is studded with none-too-subtle hotels. But it’s worth staying there – the sights of Valletta are a quick ferry or bus ride away, and it’s just along from the trendier are of St Julians, where Maltese and visitors alike head for an evening stroll or to take their pick of the bars, restaurants and clubs.

Food

Nowhere does Malta’s multiple invasions show more than in the cuisine. The pizzas are delicious (try La Cave in Pjazza Kastilja, Valletta) and arancini (risotto rice balls with mozzarella in the middle) make a great Italian-style lunchtime snack. But they also sell pastizzi, which are like small pasties, filled with ricotta cheese or mushy peas – very cheap, very yummy. The Maltese make their own wines and even have their own soft drink, Kinnie, which is worth a taste. Their official favourite dish, though, is hare The islands’ official favourite dish, though, is fenek, or rabbit.

Get the blues

Beach addicts need to get away from Valletta and Sliema. The smaller islands of Gozo and Comino have gorgeous beaches, including the flagship Blue Lagoon – a beautiful turquoise-watered stretch of shore which can get rammed with people in summertime. Another great place to swim and catch some rays is Golden Bay, and there’s great diving and snorkelling to be had all around the island, especially at the delightfully named Fungus Rock.

Prehistory mystery

Then there’s the ruins. They’re old – really old – and mysterious. Take a trip out of Valletta to Hagar Qim. Although the prehistoric atmosphere is spoiled a little bit by the weatherproof covering, it’s a beautiful place to wander around and use your imagination. Hypogeum and Tarxien temples are also great places to visit.

Remember…

Malta is a staunchly Catholic country, which means on Sundays things can get very quiet, and on religious festival days, things can get very loud! On Good Friday the streets are rammed with people as a parade of people dressed as Roman soldiers and apostles moves through the streets, carrying statues of Jesus – on Easter Sunday the whole parade starts again.

 

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