Finding a local, Boho lunch spot in Venice is just a ferry ride away. Take the boat to Redentore on the A yellow line and prepare to have the best (cheap) sea bass ravioli of your life when you get there. You’ll end up on a little island called Giudecca, which is completely worth the ride.

Walk around to see painters and artistans at work. There’s a supermarket and an excellent greengrocer and bakery too, if you’re doing Air BnB and want to shop.  The local dogs and older people with baskets on their arms, let you know you’re miles away from the madness of big-action Venice. Instead, Redentore (quietly) rocks.

Take this boat and escape Touristy Venice.

Take this boat and escape Touristy Venice.

One of the main reasons people love this particular ferry stop is a cheap, excellent local trattoria called La Palanca, just a few steps away.
You will eat tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad all over Venice, but their version is outstanding. And the pasta is to die for. Just see these reviews…

Tomato and buffalo mozarella salad at Palanca.

Tomato and buffalo mozarella salad at La Palanca.

Lonely Planet:  Lunchtime competition for canalside tables is stiff, but the views of the Zattere make tagliolini ai calamaretti (narrow ribbon pasta with tiny calamari) and swordfish carpaccio with orange zest. At €7 to €9 for plates of pasta, you’ll be forking over half what diners pay along the waterfront in San Marco. Dinner is not served, but you can get cicheti (bar snacks) right up to closing time.

Trip Advisor:  Run by a friendly family, the food is mainly fresh seafood. Wonderful cuttlefish pasta and sea bass ravioli. Great starters. The owner will take you through the fresh dishes of the day. Very reasonable price. Two courses with a couple of beers each came to €55 for two. Certainly off the usual tourist tracks. Highly recommended.

New York Times: There’s no better place to wander aimlessly than the narrow sliver of Giudecca… Perhaps you’ll stumble onto the church of Santissimo Redentore, built in the 16th century to commemorate the bubonic plague that killed 30 percent of the Venetian population that century. Before you leave, grab lunch at any of the island’s fantastic trattorias. Listen to the fishermen complain about the morning’s catches at La Palanca…

Walking the island around the Redentore ferry stop is easy. You won’t get lost (unless you try very hard) and there are plenty of interesting distractions. If you only want something light to eat, then pull up a chair and gaze at the water, at Ostaria AE Botti (known to the English as Botty). The tapas is amazing. Delicious local seafood and fresh Bruschetta – plus great coffee. Again, well under tourist prices. It’s a few steps away from where you disembark.


Shop with the locals. You can buy seafood soup ingredients from the supermarket, fresh vegetables or bread. Stroll along the waterfront and you will soon hit a convenient chain of them.




You’ll find painters and artisan craftspeople and jewellers tucked away, not far from your (new) favourite local lunch spot. 
The main landmark is the Church of the Redentore, which is cool, quiet, calm and has an astonishing number of relics, including a row of wax monks’ heads, with the owners’ original beards intact.


Boho Gondola, Venice (Mark Ferguson).

Boho Gondola, Venice (Mark Ferguson).



You know you’re miles away from touristy Venice when you see a couple of dogs in residence. The artisans and painters here are fond of their animals and it shows.





Holiday Goddess contributor Mark Ferguson says he only found this place because of a flight cancellation. He had to find a hotel at short notice, settled on the Hilton, and then wound up on the boat to Redontore (the entirely non-Boho hotel is a short walk away).

Take a day or a morning, stock up for your picnics or Air BnB kitchen – or just sit down for some of the best cheap pasta in Venice.
Story Jessica Adams and Mark Ferguson.

Holiday Goddess contributor Mark Ferguson in Venice.

Holiday Goddess contributor Mark Ferguson in Venice.

About Holiday Goddess Editors

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