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Hobart – the Happiest Australian Daycation

Why do so many Holiday Goddess editors love Hobart? Because it’s a short flight from Melbourne, Sydney or Brisbane and it’s a daycation for less (much less) than you expect. Especially in winter.

I spent three years in Hobart once and didn’t want to leave. The live music in the pubs was wonderful, the people were kind, the houses were all beautiful early 20th century (and so cheap to rent) and the air was clean.  Amazingly, it’s still the same – and I always go back. I know it’s not the ‘real’ Australia that tourists like. No bronzed babes, outback drawl, Byron Bay detox spas or kangaroos. Still, perhaps because it escapes the throngs, and the thongs, Hobart remains pristine, beautiful and cool. It’s a bit New Zealand, I guess – except it’s not.

What can you expect when you touch down for Saturday or Sunday? Don’t miss Salamanca Market – in fact, time your trip to be here when the stallholders have just set up. Prices for everything from fudge to vintage coats are low, low, low. You can also book wildlife-spotting boat rides from the market (to see the strangely beautiful Tasmanian sea creatures out there in the ocean) on Tasman Island Cruises. Chat to them on the stall for advice about departure times. If it’s not a trip for now, it may be a trip for later.

The big legend at Salamanca Place, where the market is held, is Mure’s, which sells the best and biggest oysters in Australia. Can I say that? Well, I’m going to. I’ve never had more delicious fresh oysters than those at Mure’s. In winter, walk in without booking.

Nearby Mure’s, you’ll see some little fishing boats. They also sell oysters, and bright red crayfish to eat on the spot. You can dine in on the boats, and order a glass of Tasmanian vino. They are sweet and small, as little boats should be, and the fish and chips is pretty heavenly. Bob around, and enjoy the relatively tiny bill at the end.

Salamanca Place is very special to me. I spent so many New Year’s Eve celebrations here for a start –it’s where the pubs stayed open beyond midnight, and the yachties rolled in, fresh from the Sydney-Hobart race. I knew quite a few women who made friends with yachties, shall we say, and got a free ride back to the mainland that way.

Ah, the mainland. You’ll hear Hobart locals namecheck it often. They’re actually talking about the rest of Australia. It’s quaint but true. Tasmanians feel different.

The state is world famous for its wilderness and its fight to save the same. It’s a way of life here. It’s also created a mini-culture of tours, shops and furious campaigning. Support The Wilderness Society in their shop at Salamanca Place, right on the market. Even buying a postcard of a sad-faced wombat will do.
After the Market/Mures go wander around town, if you like, which is five minutes away. Follow the signs, or the steady queue of people up the hill. There are some beautifully preserved buildings, and some interesting places to eat.

Call this a Tasmanian taster. If you fall in love with the atmosphere, the space, the beauty and the history (as so many writers, artists and musicians have before you) then you’ll be back. Next time, allow a week and see the whole state.

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