Clare Press indulges her aristo fantasies in Hong Kong.

Dim Sum © Matej Pribelsky

Dim Sum © Matej Pribelsky

I’m a sucker for art deco glamour – the hats, the frocks, the general elegance of all those lovely curved lines. I would have been a fabulous colonialist posh-girl: no qualms whatever about asking the cook to put dinner on; the nanny to deal with the children; the maid to brush my hair and pour me a nice strong G&T.  These days, of course, all that is hopelessly un-P.C.  … and you can forget about lording it over an army of minions. Luckily, there remain pockets of deco decadence in Hong Kong where you can pretend you’re Nancy Cunard – at least for as long as it takes for the tea to be poured.

Luck Yu Tea House on Central’s Stanley Street is just as it has always been; the spick and span waiters in their smart white coats serving yum cha; the lazy turn of the ceiling fans; the lovely old wooden paneled booths and stained glass fittings. And what food! The Luck Yu pork buns may well be the best in the world. Don’t leave without trying the sticky rice, the Cantonese crispy noodles with braised beef and green peppers, the prawn dumplings and the egg tarts. Weep if you want to. This is the stuff of full-blown foodie emotional outbursts. Decadence itself.

Luck Yu Tea House, 24-26 Stanley Street, Central District, Hong Kong,
Tel: +852/2523 5464
(no website)