Take the train from Charing Cross station, London and after 90 minutes with a cup of tea and a good book, you will be in retro seaside heaven – Hastings and St Leonards, Sussex.

There is a reason why so many glossy magazine editors in London have moved to Hastings and its sister town, St Leonards on Sea; it’s perfect lady heaven. Don’t worry about the modern bit after the station when you get into Hastings station – just keep walking in the direction of the glittering sea. All along the seafront, some of the most stylish and creative people in Britain have created a kind of womanly paradise.

It’s vintage, it’s organic, it’s pretty, it’s charming, it’s…endless.

Hastings is about a mile’s walk from St Leonards, so you can spend a happy day in both towns, shuttling between vintage clothing shops and witty cafes and tea-rooms. (The kind with knitted cupcakes in the window). If all else fails, grab a home-made, organic little something from Judges Bakery, on the High Street in Hastings and sit on the beach.

These two classic seaside resorts were popular with the young Queen Victoria, who put both towns on the map for generations of British travellers. Ye olde tourists all loved the West Hill Lift, which still stands today. Take the trip and you’ll end up at even older landmarks – Hastings Castle and St Clement’s Caves.

You can’t really get lost in either Hastings or St Leonards. Just head for the sea. All the wonderful shops, cafes, pubs, bakeries, old-school fish and chips (and ice-cream) are a few streets or alleyways in front.

After a decent amount of wandering in Hastings, though, you may need a drink. Follow your nose to the beach and plonk your bag down at The Royal Standard.

It’s bright red, so hard to miss. One of the most beautiful old pubs in Britain, right on the water – dating back about 300 years. Firemen drank here.

The Royal Standard is minutes from the two best shopping streets in Hastings, which meet on a corner; High Street and George Street. Most of the shops here don’t have websites, but wander round for long enough and you’ll find all the rocking horses, Liberty print curtains, jet necklaces and plain old junk that your heart desires. Plus, some outstanding new British design.

The best organised new/old shop in both towns is Little Treasures. I found a motherlode of 1970s Biba make-up here, all under £10. It’s full of beautiful, non-pricey objects, from 1980s Princess Diana shoes to sweet paste jewellery. New Brit collectables are also on sale here – Lush cushion covers with wild fox and other animal designs are easy to take home (below).

Organic salads and good local fish are never far away in Hastings – or you may want to have lunch in St Leonards, where there are two great choices. The first is the St Leonards Post Office Tea Rooms, on the sea front, around a 15-minute walk heading right, from Hastings. It’s at 40a Marina.

The second choice in St Leonards is the amazing St Clements Restaurant, which had a fixed-price two course lunch menu for £13.50 when I called. Hastings Fishcakes followed by cod and mash in a crab cream sauce? Don’t mind if I do. You’ll find it at 3 Mercatoria.

St Leonards was created partly by the man who built Bloomsbury, which might explain its great beauty and elegance. People here have painted their houses in seaside colours – brilliant turquoise, sunny lemon, sand, pale violet – which has revived its charm.

It’s an odd place. Its oldest and best pub, The Horse and Groom, is also in Mercatoria, which sounds like a fantasy kingdom. St Leonards also has (believe it or not) a stretch called Lavatoria.
The Horse and Groom is very close to Norman Road, which has lovely cafes and more South Coast Style. It’s all about Union Jack cushion covers, seagull patterns, pink cup-cakes, green bunting, brown leather armchairs and a big shout-back to Britain as she was at the Coronation.
It’s like the 1980s with all its ugliness never happened (unless you want a Joan Collins frock for a disco). Hastings and St Leonards might be too cold for a swim, but for the ultimate escape from London, get on that train. (Story – Jessica Adams).