It’s predawn as we set off from North Dakota’s historic cowboy town of Medora. An icy wind cuts through fleecy layers. In nearby Theodore Roosevelt National Park, the spectacular sight of elk, deer and bison herds makes the early start worthwhile.
But one vision makes my heart leap – a herd of wild mustangs galloping through the Badlands. I’m reminded of the Silver Brumby books I read as a kid and I’m inspired. I want to be a cowgirl.
Cowboy culture is alive and kicking in North Dakota and at a cutting horse invitational the next day outside Medora, it doesn’t take long to see cowgirls are holding their own in this thrilling display of horsemanship.
In North Dakota there are about 200 cutters, as riders are known, and events are held around the state on most weekends. I’ve never seen so many checked shirts, cowboy hats and boots. I make a mental note to buy real boots before leaving.
Cutting competitions test the skills needed by ranchers to separate one cow from a herd. Competitors are awarded points on aspects of their performance that relate mainly to style.
Unsurprisingly, cowgirls believe women make better cutters. “I think women are more tuned-in to their horses,” one says. Another says: “You’ve got to be a little bit aggressive but sometimes men get too aggressive.”
Next stop, boot shop. Wanner Western Wear in Dickinson, North Dakota is where real cowboys buy their boots. Eventually I settle for a pair of Tony Lama originals with Cuban heals and decorative stitching.
My cowgirl experience continues when I’m invited to learn rodeo skills with a rodeo family. North Dakotans are friendly and outgoing and rodeo competitors will invite interested strangers home. Troy Backhaus, proud winner of several team-roping and calf-roping buckles, and wife Tammy live on an idyllic property outside Bismarck with daughter Carly (the 2006 Miss North Dakota High School Rodeo Queen) and sons Clayton and Colton.
Troy ropes six steer in succession. Now it’s my turn. First you have to be able to throw a lasso, so Tammy shows me how. I lasso my arm, my hat, the fence pole and even my foot before I find that subtle twist of the wrist that’s missing and master it. Now it’s time to try it on horseback. I stand in the saddle, one arm holding the reins loosely; confident in the fact my quarterhorse knows what he’s doing. My other arm is above my head madly looping as I focus on my target: a plastic steer towed along in the dust by Tammy and her horse.
So it’s not a real cow. But I can’t tell you the feeling of elation as I rope my first “steer”. You couldn’t wipe the grin off my face with a sledgehammer. I not only have cowgirl skills, I also have proper boots to match.
Getting there: V Australia offers direct daily flights from Sydney to Los Angeles and direct flights ex Brisbane are available Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Connecting flights to Bismarck, North Dakota available with Delta and United Airlines.
For flights, hotels and the best holiday deals to the USA: www.zuji.com.au
For more information www.ndtourism.com
North Dakota Cowboy Hall of Fame
http://www.northdakotacowboy.com
The Cowboy Hall of Fame can recommend a number of real Medora cowboys who are available to teach roping skills.
Accommodation
Badlands Motel
501 Pacific Ave, Medora
Bookings: www.medora.com or call 1800 MEDORA
Shopping
Wanner Western Wear
1173 3rd Avenue West
Dickinson, ND 58601-3852
Phone: (701) 483 0659
