A Weekend in Auckland
My iPad movie was interrupted by a Jetstar announcement that strict New Zealand entry controls would prevent “pists” from entering the country. That vowel shift announced my return to Auckland, two decades since my last visit.
Where To Stay
I stayed in the economical Marsden Viaduct, which is, curiously, on the 2nd and 4th floors of the much more expensive Sofitel. My room was large, clean, quiet, with a comfortable bed and good water pressure. Even the combined shampoo/conditioner in the shower didn’t give me the frizz. Of course, if I were paying Sofitel prices, I would have found a few things to whinge about – but that would be three times the price just to complain.
Marsden Viaduct is ideal if you fear being judged by your Uber driver on drop-off. Though in Auckland, there’s no need to Uber, and sometimes the traffic is so bad you’ll regret not catching a bus. You can pick up an At Hop transport card at many locations and auto recharge it with the App.
Architecture & Arts
Since my last visit Auckland has had a lot of development – apartment blocks and utilitarian structures obscure her many fine old buildings. Gus Fisher Gallery is a magnificent well-maintained Art Deco building. Once the first radio station in the southern hemisphere, it retains an ornate deco exterior and interior, including a magnificent circular stained-glass skylight. It’s a free public gallery that’s part of The University of Auckland exhibiting curated rather than commercial art. On my visit, the exhibition was celebrating contemporary women artists including Yoko Ono, Pipilotti Rist and Martha Rosler. The latter aggressively waving cooking utensils in the air to form the letters of the alphabet on an ancient tv screen.
Though not all the new buildings are strictly functional, the redevelopment of nine blocks of the downtown Britomart precinct is astonishing. This area was created in the 19th Century by dynamiting the headland into the sea and named it after a British ship. On my last visit this area was an ugly bus terminal surrounded by dilapidated graffitied colonial buildings. Now, through 20 years of effort by Cooper and Company, Britomart has become a hub of cool restaurants, shops, and public art in the neighbourhood surrounding the Britomart hotel.
Where to Eat
Amano’s in Britomart is the place for breakfast and coffee. This expansive, hip, wood-and-brick industrial restaurant & bakery serves locally sourced Italian cuisine, coffee, cake, gelato and breakfast cocktails from early until late. Having already eaten local muesli from Woolworths when I woke, I still managed to squeeze in a Crombolini chock-a-block with jam and custard.
The City bus and your At Hop card can deliver to Karangahape Road to visit St Kevin’s Arcade. St Kevins Arcade is a very well-preserved Victorian shopping centre with stained glass and wood panelling with second-hand shops, cafes and a bar downstairs. I had lunch at Bestie which basically serves did eggs 2 ways with lots of sides. And while you’re in this grungy neighbourhood, drop into Artspace Aotearoa to see what the conceptual artist have imagined. On my visit an ambient musician had worked with a graphic artist to create new ways to notate music.
Back in the city for dinner, the menu displayed outside Rodd & Gunn The Lodge looked gamey and enticing for drizzly May in Auckland. I was initially prejudiced against a restaurant attached to a menswear shop, on the quay in the centre of the city, so I moved on to my original destination of Queen Street Rooftop and Wineshop. Fortunately, they were fully due to “Thirsty Thursday”, and I returned to The Lodge for an exceptional venison dinner. Later, I learned this meaty magic was created by Michelin Star Chef Matt Lambert.
A friend called recommending Giapo ice cream for dessert. Inside Giapo the staff were slavishly crushing nuts, toffee, wafers or constructing the ornate ‘Grammable cones – so it took a little time to be served. My cup of Giapo Buono and Monovale Blueberries & Lemon Curd was unique, delicious and not too sweet. Their trellised pagola on the street was a less bright and more comfortable consumption spot.
After two full days, feeling I hadn’t exploited all Auckland has to offer, I shifted back to Sydney bedtime to arise easily for a dawn Jestar flight. A few hours later, I knew I was home as Jetstar announced Australia customs were very strict on allowing “pests” into the country.
