Havilah stars in Lonely Planet’s favourite City of Gastronomy, the reborn foodie Hub, Launceston.
When I used to have my birthdays in Launceston between the ages of nine and eighteen, there was only one restaurant to visit. It was called Pierre’s and it served crepes and garlic bread – daring for the Seventies and early Eighties. We loved it; especially when the alternatives were Chiko Rolls and Dagwood Dogs.
A few decades later and Launceston is a UNESCO City of Gastronomy and one of Lonely Planet’s Top Ten worldwide destinations.
Launceston’s best foodie lovers’ wine bar is Havilah, still packed after five years on Charles Street. I’m not the only person to have found it noisy according to one TripAdvisor review, but the food and wine are simply wonderful.
The Launceston Foodie Hub
I visited Havilah with Robin McLeavy (currently in The Newsreader on ABC-TV) and Shayne Brian, from LAFM/Chilli FM and host of the hugely popular Long Way to the Top podcast. And also, I will admit, Rock Stars – my own podcast.
Robin also recorded the audiobook for Chrissy Amphlett’s relaunched autobiography, Pleasure and Pain – a mammoth task – so she definitely deserved a drink.
The great thing about Launceston, I realised, strolling over from the other side of town – is that it’s so walkable.
Havilah joins Du Cane and Bread + Butter around the pretty Prince’s Square foodie hub. I’m not sure what the word is for a wine lover. Surely not wino? Wino hub? In any case, depending on the local of your hotel or Air BnB, you can probably walk home.
Gastronomy City, Launceston
Du Cane at 60 Elizabeth Street is on the other side of the square, with Bread + Butter at number 70. It’s the Tasmanian version of a Golden Triangle I suppose. Well, a Golden L-Shape anyway.
There are some beautiful oak trees here (one planted by the old Duke of Edinburgh) and a famous fountain, too, at the heart of the square – the Val d’Osne.
The Winemaker’s Wine Bar
We were here to try Launceston’s number one wine bar, though (The Sydney Morning Herald loved it, right from its opening) so we ordered some small plates and a bottle of Giovino.
Havilah is the name of one of owner Ricky Evans’ Two Tonne Tasmania wines.
They also offer one-hour wine-tasting sessions here. You can walk in to drink or dine, too, but don’t chance it. This winemaker’s wine bar – for other winemakers – is popular.
Havilah is on the map for Launceston’s Urban Wine Walks too and Tasmanian festivals.
Food writer Alix Davis went with a group and came away impressed with the drinks menu in particular.
“There are plenty of wines available by the glass (predominantly Tasmanian and European), but there’s also a wall of very reasonably priced wine for sale that you can take home or drink in-house (just add $25 for corkage).”
My old VOGUE colleague Amanda Ducker, reviewing Havilah, wrote that it staked“a minimalist claim on connoisseurs with a sophisticated wine list that pays tribute to terroir.”
My friend Fiona Perkins (from Bacash, the legendary 21-hatted Melbourne restaurant) says she’s always loved Charles Street. In fact her grandparents lived in a terrace near the foodie hub.
There’s clearly something about the place. But how was dinner at Havilah?
Grazing, Wining and Dining
The bar is simple, unfussy and pared-back inside. I had to ask if we could move outside, though.
Years of interviewing bands like Nirvana and in fact, Robin’s favourite, Chrissy Amphlett, has left me with hearing aids.
There’s no heating on their Charles Street tables and Launceston in November can be cold, but luckily we’d bought our coats.
Anchovies on Toast
This is a great place for grazing, wining and dining. The white anchovies on toast with fennel were intensely fishy and a good, tangy accompaniment to the best scallops I’ve ever tasted.
Tasmania is famous for these star-quality little molluscs. They are plentiful here and affordable scallops are so abundant, they end up in bakery pies) but these were outstanding, grilled with fermented chilli butter and served in their shells.
Chiko Roll Memories, Begone
Robin recommended that we try the Gnocco Fritti, which is Italian fried dough, with delicate prosciutto-like ham.
They were unusual, but delicious and all memories of Launceston Chiko Rolls from the 1970’s were gone forever.
Shayne and Robin also rated the bresaola highly – and then it was time to finish the bottle.
I was due to see Dave Graney and Clare Moore at The Royal Oak and it was well past the appointed hour for bands.
Rome to Tasmania
Havilah offers light-on, delicious, minimalist grazing for people who love Tasmanian food but might have just flown in from Rome.
On a late summer evening you can also stroll around the famous square afterwards to work some of it off. Just don’t fall in the fountain.
Need to Know: Havilah is noisy so if you have hearing issues you may want to sit outside. Bring your coat if it’s chilly; there is no street heating.
Good to Know: Havilah is close to everything a foodie might want, in the centre of Launceston. If it’s too full to get in on the night, the enormous Du Cane, nearby, has its own brewery and an excellent gourmet pizza menu.
