Shopping in Shibuya is a necessary evil for a Goddess in Tokyo. Recently, there’s more foreigners who seem to have little of the local’s skill in moving quietly and gently through the mass of humanity, and the department store food basements are less magical. Though every Goddess must experience: the famous scramble crossing, pay respects to the statue of Hachiko (the dog who waited at the station for the master that never returned) , the chaos of the original Tokyo Hands, and shopping though the spiraling heights of Shibuya 109. Though, when you need to get off your heels, you can escape to the much calmer Shinsencho nearby.
I first stayed in the area years ago in an inexpensive but completely functional Tokyo Stay with balconies, opposite a supermarket and near a cool coffee shop. Close to the buzz but out of the hive made for an ideal stay. Though, in recent years hotels near major hubs have become more expensive and my tolerance for deep, congested stations like Shibuya has diminished.
However, this year I returned to Shibuya for lunch at Turntable. Before Turntable opened, on a weekday, there were a dozen people waiting outside indicating good value. You can book on Tabelog if you want to be sure of a table.
Turnable has a buffet lunch, or viking as the locals say, rare in this area. Of the choice of Tokushima prefectural dishes, I had Awaodori Smoked Chicken, for about 2000JPY. The portion was small like many Japanese courses, though the vegetable dishes, desserts and drinks from the buffet are included in this price. The vegetables were a bounteous combination of salads, soups, simmered and grilled. I felt no shame if going for seconds – as I observed the locals did the same.
Turntable has a hostel upstairs with private rooms at the expected rate and dormitory beds for about half the price. Best to use Google Translate to book on the Turntable website as the general booking sites seem to have very inflated prices.
On the way back into the fray, I found the preloved clothes shop, aNiKi Used & Vintage. While much smaller than stores like Chicago, the retro rock and roll selection was well curated. In the seventies, at a school assembly, a beardy born-again once sung us songs of covert conversion. While my Catholicism was unwavering – I did want his coat! Here I found a similar tassled suede jacket though I think I’ve moved on from jacket envy.
Need To Know:
- Turntable offers a healthy inexpensive buffet lunch near but away from the madness of Shibuya.
Which I’d Known:
- There’s a hotel/hostel at Turnable – be sure to book on their website.
Don’t Want to Know:
- Shibuya Station is one of my Tokyo hells. Perhaps plan to arrive at a smaller station.
