A short train trip from London takes you to Lewes, to a castle with a direct view of the jail where Mick Jagger was banged up. And to a house which Henry VIII was forced to give his ex-wife.

Okay we’ll admit it. We don’t just go to lovely Lewes for the history. We go for the pretty shops. Wickle is our favourite. They make their own scent, in bottles with small silver charms tied around the caps. They also sell Union Jack flags, eccentric children’s notebooks and other irresistibles. There is only one main street in Lewes, and Wickle is halfway down. Keep walking and you will also find two huge retro, secondhand and antique centres. (The first one in the trio is on the way from Lewes train station).

This is a map-free town. Just wander and look for the signposts. Look up to see the famous castle. Climb to the top and you’ll see the prison where Mick Jagger was temporarily held. The castle has few other stories to tell: you’ll get more from Anne of Cleves House. It’s a beautifully preserved Tudor rental (yes, Anne rented it out) which Henry was forced to hand over when the marriage failed. How very modern of him. The floors slope and so the ceilings – and you simply wouldn’t want to be on that bed, either with or without Henry. Still, it’s remarkable.

For a small place, Lewes has had an awful lot going on. It also houses a spooky ruined abbey (for some reason the monks’ lavatory arrangements dominate the archaeology) and the home of an American independence radical.
It’s a great place for a day’s wandering. Pretty and charming. Always interesting, and well-stocked with extremely cool places to eat – like The Real Food Company or Bill’s, down the hill from Wickle. You’ll spot them both near the bridge over the river.

The Harveys brewery is beautiful, even if you don’t drink the beer, and there is a pub attached to it. The wooden barrels are so huge they have been turned into seat-backs. Again, look to the river and follow the signs.

To  book your ticket in advance for magical, map-free Lewes,  go to thetrainline.com and book on Southern Trains.