Mark Ferguson eats out with the locals in their own home near Tokyo.

In Tokyo you rarely visit someone’s home as often apartments are too small to host and there are so many outside possibilities. However, you can book a whole house at Saryou Wagurumi (茶寮和ぐるみ) in Gunma about 2-3 hours away. You will be welcomed into a large traditional home jam-packed with Japanese and European antiques for a multi-course meal hosted by Yukari and her mother. It feels like visiting a beloved aunt and grandmother whom you rarely see and who are very glad to see you. When you book your group – whether it’s 2 or 20 you’re the only guests in their home.

Yukari raised her children in Texas though speaks English unaffected by that Southern drawl. Yukari’s collection of vintage Ralph Lauren and the row of cowboy boots at the back door is testament to her love of Americana. Yukari’s works on her nearby organic farm in her cowboy boots to grow vegetables for the meals. She also forages for herbs in the nearby woods.

The house has been in Yukari’s family for 145 years – originally the family made soy sauce. There is still a roof tile that says “Shoyu-ya” meaning soy sauce house. Even today, some older people still call the house “Shoyu-ya” whereas younger people call it “Wagurumi-san” – an honorific name for Japanese walnuts. After World War II, the family became farmers and raised silkworms to make silk. These days Yukari and her mother live upstairs, and the family shrine is hidden behind a panel honouring Yukari’s grandfather and other relatives.

My friend had been there before, so we arrived the back door where a long Boy’s Day carp banner was elegantly draped. However, we walked down the side of the house to the front door to arrive ceremoniously in the front room chock-a-block with samurai suits, flowers and other curios.

To begin, Yukari made us traditional matcha in the tearoom served with sweets, followed by 6 or 7 courses, some containing several dishes. It was the first time I had tasted pickled fukinoto – the bitter buds of the butterbur – foraged by Yukari. Each dish of fish and vegetables was beautifully presented.

Wagurumi can also provide sake and beer with your meal. With the sake arrived a drinking game: 3 face shaped cups and a spinning top with the faces on its sides. The side of the facing up after a spin determined which cup you would drink from:

• Otofuku, whose famous face brands Japanese condiments, is the smallest cup if you hope to last the game.
• Hyottoko is medium sized but has a hole in the mouth so you cannot put it down.
• 
Tengu, with his long red nose is the biggest cup, so I you spin him too many times you’ll probably be under the table.

That dining table was also overlooked by a collection of Tengu masks.

After lunch we retired to the garden for coffee and dessert. Sitting on wrought iron furniture surrounded by flowers felt like the English countryside.

When it came time to leave, I signed the guest book after practicing my grade school katakana a few times. No one pointed out that I had the accents in the wrong place.

NEED TO KNOW

There’s a local train station very close to Wagurumi.

You can contact Wagurumi through the Enquiries button ( お問合わせ) at of the bottom of the web page. Yukari can confirm a price based on your requirement which will surely be reasonable for this unique experience.

Payment in by cash or PayPay – so best bring cash as you won’t have PayPay unless you live in Japan

WISH I’D KNOWN

There is a temple nearby where you can take dolls and plush toys that are associated with some bad event. The monks will free the toys from the Yokai – the spirits that inhabits them.

For a more comfortable long journey arrive the platform early and update your Suica travel card with the Green Car Ticket Machine marked with a four-leaf clover. The double Green Car carriages are also marked with a four-leaf clover and often in the middle of the train. If you get on the wrong carriage, there’s an announcement of Green Car carriages numbers between stops and you can quickly change to the correct carriage at then next station. When you board the Green car tap your Suica on the symbol above your seat and enjoy the ride.

DON’T WANT TO KNOW

Plan your journey home as the trains may be less frequent in the evening.